The Reappearing Donut and the Return of Pleasure
The rebirth of the donut is inextricably tied to its identity as a dessert
food. Sugar, glaze, cake, creme -- these do not belong to the class of
things which comprise breakfast. These are dessert things. And dessert
things come after other things, after dinner, after the business of
nourishment has been attended to. The re-emerging donut bodes well in this
regard for it would seem that we are finally through attending to our
lives. That we once again have time for dessert. Room for donuts.
We tend to be ashamed of the small quirky pleasures which make us happy
because we cannot define them. All of our best words having been co-opted
in poll results, we have lost our vocabulary of appreciation. We no longer
have a framework of shared experience that exists independently of media
culture. And yet instead of insisting on our unique differences we have
become obsessed with attempting to forge new, shared preferences. This
quest for community requires increasingly distinct experiences and the
common donut functions elegantly in this regard as an identity-defining
pleasure. And it is in this sense that the donut's presence in our
collective cultural landscape is profoundly telling.
November 5, 1998
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