The Disappearing Donut and the Demise of Pleasure
The death of the donut is inextricably tied to its identity as a
breakfast food -- an association which makes no sense whatsoever. Sugar,
glaze, cake, creme -- these do not belong to the class of things which
comprise breakfast. These are dessert things. And dessert things come
after other things, after dinner, after the business of nourishment has
been attended to. The disappearing donut bodes ill in this regard for it
would seem that we are never through attending to our lives. That we no
longer have time for dessert. No room for donuts.
We tend to be ashamed of the small quirky pleasures which make us happy
because we cannot define them. All of our best words having been co-opted
in poll results, we have lost our vocabulary of appreciation. We no longer
have a framework of shared experience that exists independently of media
culture. And yet instead of attempting to forge new, shared preferences we
have become obsessed only with insisting on our unique differences. This
quest for singularity requires increasingly distinct experiences and the
common donut could never function in this regard as an identity-defining
pleasure.
It is in this sense that the donut's absence from our collective
cultural landscape is profoundly telling.
November 5, 1998
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